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From Xavier Salomon, Executive Chef, The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay

From Cal Stamenov, Executive Chef, Bernardus Lounge

Served in 2009:

Garden Mâche with Wild Mushrooms, Fingerling Potatoes and Bacon Vinaigrette

It all started with the bed of mâche in my garden. It thrives here in Carmel Valley year-round, so I devised a salad to keep up with my proliferating crop. It quickly became a hit at Marinus, and proved so popular that I created four variations on this theme, one for each season. In the winter months, I often use black truffles in addition to or in place of wild mushrooms, but this is a luxury most of don’t have at home. Feel free to add them if you wish, but this robust, country style salad is absolutely delicious without them. The tender mâche will wilt slightly when tossed with the hot, smoky mushrooms, and the salad is meant to be served slightly warm. Although I’ve specified two varieties of mushrooms in this recipe, more or less is fine- use whatever you like and can find.

Serves 4

For the Bacon Vinaigrette
¼ cup thinly sliced, peeled shallots
1/3 cup thinly sliced thick-cut bacon (about 3 slices)
1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
¼ cup sherry vinegar
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

For the Mushrooms
8 ounces trumpet or porcini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced (1/4-inch thick)
8 ounces cremini or hedgehog mushrooms, trimmed and sliced (1/4-inch thick)
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Kosher salt
2 teaspoons minced shallots
1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
2 teaspoons minced fresh Italian parsley
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon

For assembling the dish

4 fingerling potatoes, cooked and peeled
¼ cup basic French-style vinaigrette
4 ounces mâche, washed and dried

Bacon Vinaigrette

Combine the bacon and shallots in a large skillet and place over medium heat. Cook until the bacon renders its fat and the shallots soften and turn translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another 2 minutes.

Add the sherry vinegar and cook until the liquid is reduced to about 1 tablespoon. The mixture will smell strongly of bacon and pungent vinegar. Transfer the warm mixture to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth, stopping the machine to scrape down the sides several times. Add the olive oil and run the machine for 2 or 3 minutes to create a smooth vinaigrette. The dressing will be thick. Set aside at room temperature or refrigerate (for up to 2 weeks) if making in advance.

Mushrooms

Clean the mushrooms with damp paper towels or use a paring knife to lightly scrape off any loose dirt. If you must wash them, let the mushrooms dry on paper towels or on a wire rack for 2 hours in a warm place before proceeding.

If you’re using several varieties of mushrooms, I recommend that you cook them in separate pans, so you can control the cooking times, which will vary with variety. Place a skillet over high heat, and when hot, add 1 tablespoon of oil. Add one variety of mushroom and sprinkle with salt; this helps them to melt and soften. Sauté the mushrooms without stirring over high heat until one side begins to color and becomes slightly crusty. Reduce the heat to medium-high, flip the mushrooms to their uncooked side, and finish cooking. The length of cooking time will depend on the variety of mushrooms you choose. Repeat with the remaining mushrooms. Set aside at room temperature. You can cook the mushrooms up to 2 hours in advance of serving this salad. Loosely cover them with foil and keep at room temperature.

Assembly and Presentation

Peel the fingerlings and cut into ¼-inch slices. Drizzle the potatoes with some of the French-style vinaigrette; set them aside while you proceed with the recipe.

Place the mâche in a large bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons of French Vinaigrette.

Place a large skillet over high heat and when hot, add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Combine all of the mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, to reheat and crisp the mushrooms, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, add the shallots, garlic, pepper, parsley and tarragon, and stir to combine. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly, then add 2 or 3 tablespoons of Bacon Vinaigrette to deglaze the pan. Remove from the heat and immediately pour the mushroom mixture over the mache. Add the potato slices and toss gently to combine the ingredients. Divide the salad among 4 plates and serve immediately.

Chef’s Tip

Don’t be put off by the instructions to cook mushrooms over high heat. Mushrooms are about 80% water, and the flesh needs to be broken down to release the juices and flavors inside. The easiest and quickest way to do that is with heat. When a mushroom encounters heat, the juices begin to rush out, which could cause the mushrooms to steam and become soggy. The way to avoid this is to start with a very hot pan and use a fat (in this case olive oil) that can withstand high temperatures without burning. If you add the mushrooms and allow them to sear and brown, undisturbed by stirring, they will caramelize beautifully and release their meaty flavor.

Shortcut

This recipe involves two vinaigrettes, both very different. The bacon vinaigrette is excellent as a pan de-glazer, infusing the mushrooms with a hint of sweet smokiness. As a dressing for the mâche, however, it is too heavy, which is where the second vinaigrette comes into play.

Cal’s Note

Fingerling potatoes are small and thin skinned, resembling, as their name suggests, a fat finger. One popular and commonly available variety is called Russian Banana. It has a buttery textured, yellow flesh and is very sweet tasting. For this salad, you can steam or boil the potatoes several hours in advance of making the salad. Let the fingerlings cool completely, and peel and slice them shortly before assembling the dish. Never refrigerate a cooked potato, however, because once chilled, it loses flavor, sweetness, and its subtle earthy essence.


Served in 2008:

Duck Foie Blond Salad with pickled Bing cherries, olive oil crouton, and organic greens

Recommended Wine Pairing: Pinot Gris

Duck Foie
13 ounces duck and squab livers
8.5 ounces foie gras
13 grams salt
33 grams cognac
5 grams finely cracked pepper
21 ounces cream

In a blender purée livers until smooth. Add foie gras, salt, cognac and cracked pepper and blend well. Strain through a small holed colander or medium sieve. Gradually add the cream to assist in straining. Mix well to combine with rubber spatula. Place in terrine mold and cover. Cook in water bath for 40-50 minutes at 350 degrees. Cover with melted duck fat and refrigerate.

Pickled Bing Cherries
4 pounds bing cherries – stems trimmed
2 (750ml) bottles red wine
2 cups sherry vinegar
½ cup sugar
2 bunches tarragon
¼ cup black peppercorns

Place red wine, sherry vinegar, sugar, tarragon and black pepper in a large pot. Bring to a simmer and stir to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat. Place cherries in large bowl or container and pour liquid over the top. Cover well and refrigerate for 2 weeks.

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